Thursday wrapped up my time on the Upper James with an eventful finish at Snowden. After an impromptu swim at Balcony Falls from eddying out too quickly, I was more than ready for a break. Friday I took a rest day in Bedford to restock supplies and mentally prepare for the next leg: Lynchburg to Richmond.
Saturday, Steve dropped me off at the Amherst County boat ramp near Lynchburg, where I launched onto the Middle James right as the 41st annual James River Batteau Festival was kicking off. I had the privilege of paddling alongside the batteaux for the first day down to Galt’s Mill. While I would’ve loved to join their eight-day leisurely float, time isn’t on my side, so I kept pushing.
Sunday I aimed for a 25-mile day to James River State Park. Thanks to the dam release the day before, the batteaux had decent water through Lynchburg, but we weren’t so lucky. After Bent Creek, the river dropped to just two inches in spots, forcing me to drag my kayak over a quarter mile of shoals. Still made it to the park around 6 PM, set up a discreet camp at the boat ramp, and slept like a rock.
Monday, the dragging continued. I set out hoping for 30 miles to Scottsville but fell five miles short. About five miles before camp I stopped in Howardsville at a general store for snacks and water. Not long after, the skies opened up and it stormed on and off the rest of the day. I tried waiting it out under a tree, but quickly realized that wasn’t happening, so I just paddled through the storm.
Tonight I’m tucked into a stealth campsite at a defunct ferry crossing, and it’s a big milestone: my 1,000th mile of the journey. With roughly 200 miles left and my finish target of July 2nd, I’ve got 10 days to average 20 miles a day. After two solid 25-mile days, it’s all about early starts and late finishes from here.

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